Tokyo to Zurich to Manchester – SWISS International Airlines

Possibly the worst application of those freely banded-about superlatives is that one which appears week after week in newspaper travel supplements though. Yes, that ubiquitous beast, the ‘Holiday of a Lifetime.’

The reality, almost always, fills me with horror. The interminable Economy Class flights on previously unheard-of airlines, between airports that have no more than a passing connection with the city that they’re reputed to serve, staying at lodgings bereft of all but the bare minimum number of dull twinkles of unofficially applied stars, and transit between them in clapped-out old charabancs which probably served as troop transport during the Crimean War.

The only once-in-a-lifetime thing about the whole venture is that the unwary will be charged such an inordinate sum to suffer this torture, that the combined stress of enduring it, and then paying off the resultant credit card bill, will probably mean that they die soon afterwards.

However, and I am considered but assured in my contention of this, the five weeks that GrandfatherContinentalclub had just experienced, at 86 and a half years of age, do indeed constitute the trip of a lifetime, and it was my sincere hope that the final leg of the trip would be a fine and fitting finale.

So, if any airline, from any country, could possibly pull off the reliable delivery of a quietly but assuredly promoted service, it would be SWISS, from Switzerland, with their discreetly measured First Class. Well, I tell you, I damn well hoped they would.

Check-in opens 180 minutes prior to departure at Narita, with most Star Alliance airlines, including SWISS, sharing the dedicated Southern half of Terminal One. At the far end, beyond the Business Class-branded desks, is the Star Alliance First Class check-in area, policed by an ANA-uniformed member of staff, but in no other way different from the other desk areas – except, perhaps, for the lack of queues.

In a show of distinctly un-Japanese (or Swiss, for that matter) deviation from process, check-in was actually open 201 minutes prior to departure (and possibly earlier), so we were saved a wait and were able to present ourselves immediately.

Despite the otherwise standard appointments of our surroundings, it was almost immediately the level of service that defined the experience. Firstly, upon confirmation of identity, our check-in agent presented a welcome letter from SWISS. Inside, personally-addressed details regarding that day’s flight, including the Captain and Maitre de Cabine’s names, weather conditions in Zurich and other pertinent information. As an almost no-cost burden on the airline, it was an excellent first impression.

Our agent completed the check in and issued the boarding cards for Zurich and onward to Manchester and enquired whether we would prefer to use the ANA or United First Class Lounges. After a brief discussion, she advised that the ANA Lounge, though further from check-in, would probably be better as it would be closer to the departing gate. She winked and grinned when I asked whether it might also be finer than the United one….

Rather than issue directions however, and once the formalities were complete, she simply got up from her chair, went and found a wheelchair, fastened GCC in it and off we all set, together, for the Lounge. Wait for that to happen in the superficially much classier First Class Check-In Area at Heathrow’s Terminal Five, and you’ll be waiting a very long time indeed.

Safely navigated through the crew and assistance lane at security and past United’s First Class Lounge, it was indeed a bit of a walk to the ANA Lounge Complex – the First Class and Business Class Lounges being arranged one on top of the other at the far end of the airport pier.

Our check-in angel wished us a pleasant flight and made arrangements with the dragons for a Lounge-to-gate pusher, and we settled in to watch a Singapore Airlines A380 being prepared for departure right outside.

Within seconds, a member of staff came to take a drinks order, laying down some nibbles and a hot towel as she did so. The ANA F Lounge is not grandly appointed, but it’s a quiet and pleasant place to watch the apron action and enjoy a morsel of food. There is a dining area serving a limited menu of Udon Noodles and, adjacent to that, a buffet area.

At 8am, the selections were limited, albeit of mostly delectable quality – sushi (of course), some very dainty sandwiches unappealingly shrink-wrapped in cling film, fruits, yoghurts and pastries.

The bar area, for later in the day, was reasonably comprehensive although champagne is a notable stranger to the ANA offering.

The lounge is adequate, certainly not comparable to Cathay’s First Class lounges in Hong Kong, the Qantas F Lounges in Sydney and Melbourne, or BA’s Concorde Club Room at Heathrow T5, but the service was more efficient than BA’s and the view better than Cathay’s. Whilst it may have added nothing in particular to the experience, the ANA Lounge certainly didn’t detract from it – and the peace and quiet was very welcome.

In what seemed like very little time anyway, the next pusher arrived to take us down to the gate which was, as we’d been assured, not all that far away even if it was back in the direction from which we’d first come. With no delay at all, we were pre-boarded and entered the immaculate A340-300 through Door 2L, the second from front on the port side.

Met by the Maitre de Cabine, we were escorted forward and shown to our seats, 1A and 1D, which between them constituted 25% of the entire cabin of just eight seats.

Almost equally as interesting was that the use of Door 2L allowed us to pass through the furthest forward of the two Business Class cabins, which seems to possess that slight exclusivity of the upper deck of a 747 - having just a pair of rows of 2-2-2 seating, but here on a single deck aircraft. The much larger rearward cabin, with six rows of Business Class seats, looked just as smart, but a good deal less private and a mental note for the future was made.

Back in the First Class Cabin, seven of the eight seats would be taken, but two dedicated crew members plus the Maitre de Cabine ensured that no-one was ever kept waiting for more than a moment.

Draw-corded fabric pouches containing smart pyjamas were handed out, along with generously proportioned Bally toiletry bags containing La Prairie products, and pairs of slippers.

Each seat had also been pre-laid with a wooden coat hanger so that jackets could quickly be stowed.

Pre take-off newspapers and drinks were then offered from a selection laid out at the forward bulkhead, which included a very palatable 1998 Pommery Cuvee Louise. Once airborne from Tokyo, the crew were quickly up from their seats to lay out a grander drinks display again, and to offer further refreshment to their charges.

The selected aperitifs were accompanied by a small platter of canapés, presented and individually described in some detail by the crew. The second of these canapés was, despite the elegant French description of fondant potato whipped with fresh cheeses and wrapped ‘en croute’, a perfectly bite-sized facsimile of a Greggs cheese and onion pasty and, therefore, absolutely delicious.

A screen, above the bulkhead drinks display, cycled variously through the Airshow in-flight mapping and also SWISS information and promotional videos, the latter of which included a feature on the forthcoming ‘New’ First Class product. On many other airlines, this could be a risky endeavour, resulting in the occupants of the soon-to-be-superseded seats feeling short-changed.

No real danger of that here though, as the new seat will merely be an evolution of the existing product rather than a wholesale redesign. It will, however, address the few obvious short-comings with the existing seat. The first of these is privacy – especially in the centre pairs. What looks like a partition that should rise between these seats is, in fact, fixed and the outboard single seats have no real screening to speak of other than their cocoon backs.

The second is that, despite the length, width and shape of the SWISS seat being extremely generous, bigger in all directions than British Airways’ First Class for example, the back rest is actually quite short. For sitting, slumping and dining then, the ample proportions are actually largely irrelevant, when the BA seat is, for me, ultimately more comfortable.

So, SWISS ‘New’ First will have far more privacy and a redesigned seat cushion and back, but will remain in the same footprint and layout as that currently employed. A table lamp and much larger TV screen will complete the upgrade, but will hardly leave the existing product in the shade.

The SWISS crew had already shown themselves to be charming and professional, but it was as the meal service began that their pride in their job began to really shine through. Our assigned crew member had flown with SWISS, and before that Swissair, for a combined total of 23 years – and it clearly showed. In particular, she seemed to tune in very quickly to the fact that this passenger was both interested in and keen to enjoy the service, and she responded to this with even greater enthusiasm to show-off the best that the airline had to offer.

And what a canvas she had to paint on, with an absolutely enormous dining table emerging from the side console, to which a fellow diner could more than comfortably have been invited and seated on the expansive ottoman.

Laid with white linen, first up was an amouse bouche of fine sushi, served with soy and wasabi.

Even with the addition of glassware, cruet, cutely-doilied charger plate, and individual napkin-wrapped bread basket to the table setting, there remained acres of space.

The starters, next, are served from a low, linen-draped trolley from which passengers may select their preferred items.

Not this passenger, for whom our superstar stewardess insisted that I try everything, even if it would take two plates.

On then to the salad service – again from the trolley and with the opportunity for leaf, additional ingredient and dressing selection – served seat-side.

Throughout this culinary onslaught I maintained my loyalty to the Cuvee Louise, but the Wine List was beckoning as the salad bowl was cleared.

From a choice of four main courses: Beef, Tilefish, Ricotta Cannelloni or a Veal ‘Special of The Day’, it was to the Fillet of Beef with crushed black pepper and a rosemary sauce, sautéed spinach and leeks, baby carrot and saffron tagliatelle pasta that I leaned.

Beef duly served from the galley, our crewmember invited a decision on which wine to accompany it with. Given that the wine list showed just three red selections, but the display ahead four, and with the relatively unusual opportunity to sit quietly and undisturbed to sample wines, I asked if a little tasting might be possible.

Four glasses were enthusiastically collected from the galley and, from left to right, a 2006 Merlot Riserva la Prella from Switzerland, a 2004 Chateau Smith Haute Lafitte from Bordeaux, a 2005 Excellent Blauer Zweigelt, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blend from Austria. The fourth, I am ashamed to tell you, I cannot remember, but the most important thing is that the Swiss Merlot turned out to be the star of the show from the quarter-glass tastings. Needless to say and despite my protestations, it was insisted that this choice be revealed to the crew and that glass topped up fully and then repeatedly.

Cheese to follow, and here we are back to trolley service and a quintet of Bedretto, Formagello, Fumello, Quadratino and Gruyere, accompanied by plum-sized grapes, dried apricots, chutney and 20 year old Calem Port.

Less dedicated flyers might have flagged at this point but no, this one sallied-forth towards dessert and, though the chocolate mousse made a valiant attempt to find its way to the table, it was the baked apple tartlet that prevailed, along with a little vanilla ice cream.

So it was perhaps lucky that the seventh course, after all that, was limited to a fine Nespresso coffee and a cheeky praline to round things off. There is no other way to describe the food but superb, despite the crew’s lament that caviar is no longer offered. However it was their service that made this whole dining experience truly 'First Class'.

Despite being a daylight flight, the time difference and weight of food consumed made a dimmed cabin slumber essential. The SWISS seat reclines all the way down to meet the motorised ottoman which approaches along a little track, forming a lounger and then bed. When required, the bed itself is made up from a mattress topper which lies over the seat upholstery, a crisply covered duvet and a large pillow. The lack of absolute privacy is, to a certain extent, made up for by the wide separation between the centre seats.

The bed is supremely comfortable and the increased space over the tapered (to fit into a 747’s nose cabin) British Airways First Class bed is notable around the foot area. The only discomfort was that mysterious habit of aircraft cabins heating up once crew service is concluded. It would also have been welcome had regular water replenishments been brought around, although there was a constant supply laid out at the forward bulkhead for those who felt the need to rise and rehydrate.

The on-demand In-flight Entertainment System is hugely more intuitive and easy-to-use than Air New Zealand’s or Singapore Airlines’, though still not as slick as Cathay’s or British Airways’. That said, it suffered from that continuing unreliability that plagues BA’s, and it took 20 minutes to reboot 1A’s system when it steadfastly refused to play.

The choice of audio and video was particularly well-judged – perhaps because there’s little domestic output for the airline to feel morally obliged to show; instead a comprehensive range of programming from around the World fills the listings and the time.

With a couple of hours to go before arrival in Zurich, the lights were brought up again in readiness for an ‘Arrival Service’ which might better be described as Afternoon Tea.

Table laid again, a selection of sandwiches, salads and fruits were presented on the trolley, from which a tomato and mozzarella crostini with a green salad accompaniment was chosen.

To follow, the menu offered a Light Chicken Mousse or a Mixed Mushroom Quiche and, despite the description, it was decided that the quiche (and then only a half-portion) would be appropriate given the sheer scale of the earlier consumption. Our crew were most insistent that the remaining half was available to be served at any time should I change my mind.

It was purely a matter of capacity however, as the next trolley approached with all manner of sweet treats, from which a goodly range were chosen and enjoyed immensely, washed down with a silver pot of tea. Delicious.

The only way to reflect on this flight was with the feeling that this was a glimpse of flying in a golden age, a reminder of how it used to be with a crew who were immensely professional, capable and proud, who possessed a politesse that’s quite rare these days and yet combined it with a confidence and assurance that gave away both their experience and training. Far from being disheartened that this is a vanishing way to travel, it’s hugely heartening to see that SWISS appears to be an airline on the up, one that is in the process of refining the hard product yet further and looking to be able to offer First Class cabins on every one of its intercontinental routes, making them both a reliable and, dare I say it, superlative long haul choice.

What did Grandfathercontinentalclub think as the crew chatted and then waved us away from the aircraft at Zurich?

He thought it was the flight of his life – and he didn’t need a Marketing Department to convince him.

Final Verdict for SWISS First Class: 9.0/10. It really is difficult to find fault. Some airlines serve Dom Perignon, Krug or caviar in their First Class cabins. Some offer completely private suites and individual minibars. One has even installed a shower. However none of those airlines has a consistent product across its entire fleet while, even with the roll-out of its latest upgrade, SWISS is reliably offering very similar service on every single one of its three-class aircraft.

There’s a long-term value to that in a World where lack of reliability is one of the key drivers of customer dissatisfaction and defection. On this flight, the underlying quality of the hard and soft products: the seat, the service, the catering and the attention to detail – from the welcome letter at check-in to the coat hanger on board – revealed in-depth care in product design and development. And all this without bearded publicity stunts, super-sized aircraft or Premiership football sponsorship. For one so averse to hype and impressed by the quietly special, SWISS First Class was an absolute delight.

A Class Beyond First: Zurich To Manchester - SWISS International Airlines

Right, you thought that was it then, didn’t you? Well, you’d be wrong, because there is a last little bit to add to the SWISS First tale. Had we been originating in Zurich, or continuing again in First, we would have enjoyed limousine transfers to our aircraft. However, as we were inbound to Zurich and connecting on to Manchester in Business, there’d be no limousine. We would however have access to the SWISS First Class Lounge to await our onward connection, and our (ironically, Japanese) pusher meeting us off the Tokyo flight whisked us to the automated transit and then on to the lounge with speed.

The lounge is very swish in a Vorsprung durch Technik kind of way, though the Gummi Bears in carefully-aligned cocktail glasses are a charmingly unsuccessful attempt at edge-softening. At 4pm, the lounge was very busy in both the resting and dining areas. There’s a smallish buffet of canapés combined with the self-service bar offering a wide selection of premium wines, spirits, beers and champagne, as well as juices and soft drinks.

The bathrooms are beautifully fitted, spotlessly clean and each loo cubicle includes an immensely handy coat hanger – all of which combine to shame those of the Galleries Lounges and Concorde Club Room at Heathrow’s Terminal 5.

Unlike the Concorde Room, however, it is a far from relaxing place – obviously better than the main terminal outside – but hardly a haven of peace and tranquillity. Surprisingly, free WiFi is only available for thirty minutes per visit, by means of an access code issued by Reception. For a First Class Lounge, this seems wildly stingy.

Not that we have much opportunity to feel short-changed by the WiFi, as the commendably short minimum connection times at Zurich mean that it’s not long before our next pusher appears to trundle us to the Manchester gate.

And it’s here that the incalculable luxury of space that First Class affords becomes a distant memory, as the scrum awaiting the boarding announcement of this Friday evening A320 service has to be negotiated to arrive at the desk. The customarily short wait to pre-board past, we take our seats on board with the centre seat between us blocked as per SWISS’ European Business Class policy. Even so, the aircraft is absolutely packed and it’s a hard landing after the prairie-like space of the A340.

The flight is, at least, mercifully short and the privations of passenger proximity accordingly not too unbearable. Service commences quickly with a hot meal, nicely presented and, in the case of the main course chicken breast and ravioli on a bed of mixed roast vegetables, is of far higher quality than similar British Airways Club Europe catering.

However, there was no bar or indeed any kind of drinks service before or with the meal. I can’t eat without at least a glass of water, so this was a bit uncomfortable. At least when the bar did come, it was full-bottle service and champagne was offered pro-actively.

The side salad was also largely forgettable and that curious continental concept of a lump of cheese but no biscuit upon which to place it, seemed to have found its way into SWISS menu-planning. A bread roll would have been too filling.

The leather seat was comfortable enough and the service friendly, if hurried, but on balance I’d say that SWISS European Business Class was, on this occasion, less clearly impressive against its competitor peers than its longhaul First Class big brother. That said, it was perfectly acceptable and I’d not be afraid to fly SWISS within Europe again – and the priority bag tagging even worked at Manchester.

Additional Verdict for SWISS European Business Class: 7.5/10. It is, of course, more difficult to shine on short haul sectors, but the basics of the SWISS service were there and it was a pleasant enough hop, despite the crowds on board. There were glimpses of SWISS attention to detail, like the mini chocolate bars handed out after dinner, however overall the meal-before-drinks service and not wholly-successful dinner itself mean that, personally, I’d still give BA the edge with their Club Europe.

Until The Next Time

And now, that really is the end. Five weeks, 27,000 miles, 3 star, 4 star and 5 star hotels, villas, an apartment, cafes, take-aways, coffee shops, restaurants, planes, trains, boats, a Snot and an awful lot of photographs, and we're home - tanned but exhausted.

Somewhere too, in the middle of that, I gained a Brother-in-Law, which was in fact the real reason for the trip. But I hate weddings, so I’m not writing about that. I’ll stick to planes and hotels – they’re much more interesting.

Trip Reports: The Flights of The Pilot’s Pants

Whilst encouraged by (and grateful for) the positive reactions of those insomniacs who were able to make it through my first attempt at writing up a trip report, I feel that I should extend my particular thanks to all the Chief Executives whose payrolls have been wholly wasted on their employees scrolling through this drivel in work time.

Gratitude is also due, I think, to OPEC whose recent actions have slashed travel budgets the World-over and opened up a few extra seats for redemption where those self-same CEOs used to sit.

So, from 1K, thank you again and, if you were just being polite last time then I suggest you be honest from now on. Otherwise these instalments of my life aloft may keep on coming interminably.

The Prologue

The passage of time is a terrible thing. Despite the wisdom of those who have gone before and the warnings writ large for all to see, there comes to all of us that sudden realisation that one simply doesn’t have all that long left. So, with a milestone (if not landmark) birthday rapidly approaching, I awoke one summer morning to finally accept that most final of impending demises.

Yes, I had just 29 days to redeem an expiring American Express 2-4-1 flight voucher.

Understandably panicked and spurred into purposeful action, the new British Airways' redemption availability checker was pressed into service and two practical options were offered. Club World out, First Class back from Heathrow's long-in-the-tooth Terminal Four on a Boeing 777 to Muscat for 3 days at The Chedi, or First Class both ways from the still-sparkling new T5 on a Jumbo to New York for 3 ½ days. Travelling companion: MotherContinentalclub.

By the time I’d checked out the hotels, canvassed MCC’s preferences, mucked about for a bit and asked for some others’ advice, I decided to go for Option Oman. Mixed class travel not being bookable online, I would have to wait until the following morning for British Airways' Executive Club to open and do it on the 'phone.

Needless to say, by the following morning, the outward MCT availability had gone and therefore it was a quick check of ExpertFlyer seat maps to see which flights (especially on the return) had the lightest loads before heading back to ba.com to bag the JFK flights in First. Having been ‘n’ times before, it was going to be a bit of a busman’s holiday, but I knew I’d enjoy showing MCC round for her first Big Apple experience, and the prospect of another T5 Concorde Club Room visit and the front cabin of the 747 meant that I immediately started to seriously look forward to the voyage.

Newcastle to London - British Airways

As a native of the North, the first part of the trip is always a positioning exercise before the main event of the long haul. On this occasion and to maximise the time in New York, the morning JFK flight had been selected, necessitating a previous-evening departure from Newcastle and an overnight somewhere in the vicinity of Heathrow.

Having stayed, just a week beforehand, at the Bath Road Marriott, I’d seen how simple it was to connect from T5 to the Sheratons, Radisson Edwardian and Marriott etc., on the free 423 Service Bus. However, on this occasion, the desire to extend the time in the Concorde Room, and the prospect of a day which would be lengthened by a five hour time-zone retreat, dictated even more stress-free accommodations. Thus the squeaky new Sofitel would be the property of choice tonight.

Bagging 2A and 2K for the First flight had been no problem at the booking stage, but the domestic seat selections had to wait until On Line Check In opened. On the button of 'T-24' - ie 24 hours before take-off, I logged in and made it all the way through the process until the actual process of checking-in. And failed. So I logged out and tried again. Nope, still nothing. I left the office, went home and tried again at T-23. Nada. T-22 and still no success. So I phoned British Airways' Executive Club.

The situation didn’t seem to surprise the agent all that much and he suggested a work-around which involved un-checking auto completed boxes, checking in for the domestics only, re-logging in and then checking in for the internationals. Which worked perfectly. Odd.

Arriving at Newcastle with buckets of time, I used a Self Service Check In machine to print out manageable Boarding Passes and then hit the snaking Fast Bag Drop queue, which was barely moving. The lone Gold/Silver desk was unmanned – there are no premium cabined flights from Newcastle. Eventually, an agent appeared for the vacant desk and we doubled-back out of the queue and dropped the bags. I’m not entirely certain she’d ever checked in a First connecting passenger as she looked suitably flustered by the whole process.

Although there’s a Fast Track queue at Security, this is signed for BA Silver and Gold cardholders (and an assortment of others) but not for those connecting to premium cabins on an onward basis. I’ve spoken to security staff at the airport before (when not actually passing through myself) and it seems that they’re not briefed on any allowance for Business/First Class passengers from LHR so, frankly, it’s pointless trying and we join the main queue. It moves reasonably quickly and we are in the lounge in a few minutes, having negotiated the new shopping hazard (passengers are now forced to walk through the main duty-free shop, dodging the displays to reach the gates) we were quickly installed in the BA Terraces Lounge. A lack of celebrities, or indeed many passengers at all, afforded the opportunity to take a quick snap.

Having made it so far this swiftly, it was a little disappointing to see nothing on the board suggesting an on-time departure. And, with no further information seemingly available from the Swissport contract staff, it was time to pour a large G&T, stock up on the freshly-delivered sandwiches and log on to the free wifi to glean an insight into our future from the outside world. The Arrivals & Departures function on ba.com came up trumps, even if the news was that we were facing at least a 30 minute delay to the inbound aircraft.

It was also at this moment that the much anticipated email arrived from the new You First team, offering up their myriad (but unspecified) pre-departure services. The email had lagged the booking by about 80 hours and preceded the scheduled take-off time by 43 minutes, but it was a trial service, so I wasn't too disappointed. I fired an email back asking about the possibility of pre-booking an Elemis Spa treatment for the following morning and, upon logging-on in New York the next day, I picked up the reply..... Actually, it was beautifully written, apologetic and I'd deliberately emailed them to properly test the service and response time, rather than merely telephoning for an immediate answer. Anyone booking more than a few days in advance would, I am sure, be delighted by the new support. The response was that, notwithstanding the short notice, treatments are not yet pre-bookable, but the inference was that demand through You First may force their hand. Watch this space.

Back to Newcastle and, sure enough, the ba.com info was an accurate forecast of the time between 'scheduled' and 'actual' and the Airbus A320 swung on to stand for a quick freshen up and preparation for boarding. We were called from the lounge and headed to Gate 3, arriving slightly too early. After a short wait, we were scanned through and headed down the bridge to the waiting aircraft, to be greeted by name by the Cabin Services Director – an unusually senior crewmember to be operating this domestic sector. The aircraft was tidy but definitely showing a few scuffs and bumps – less so than the previous week’s equipment but certainly a bit shabby compared to the factory-fresh A321 we’d set out on our first steps to Vancouver on in June. In fact, at this point, I should like to commend to British Airways and their contractors the fantastic product known as Autoglym Intensive Tar Remover. It is a wizard at stain removal and would tart up those white bulkheads and sidewalls which take so many kicks and scrapes. Try Halfords. Not more than a fiver. I would bring my own but I wouldn’t get it through Security.

Seated, belted and jacket hung, we were greeted by another senior crew member not all that usually seen in the cabin – the driver. She appeared with the PA in her hand and proceeded to explain what was going on. The inbound delay had been due to inclemencies in the South, with Heathrow movements restricted slightly. But, she said in her most measured of flight-deck tones, conditions had deteriorated seriously within the last hour and severe thunderstorms were now affecting the area around the airfield. Indeed the meteorological situation was, she apologised, frankly ‘pants’ so, with the title of the trip agreed, we sat back to await the 75 minute behind-time pushback.

The flight itself was uneventful, despite take-off being in lashing rain, and quite a number of Berks/Bucks/Herts circuits as we waited to enter Heathrow’s flow control. On board service was friendly and professional and the usual choice of superchilled sarnies and bar service was wheeled out. In anticipation of any bumpiness (which was in the event almost completely absent) there was no hot drink service, which was also no great loss.

Landing on 27L with the glorious Welcome to London view of the tailless G-YMMM and the forlorn G-BOAB, we had a fairly short taxi on to A6 at the North end of T5. Guidance was on, jetty operator was present and we were disembarking within 4 minutes of shutdown.

Now, get this: Gate A6 has a very long jetty bridge, but we were off first so we stormed up it. Experienced enough in all things T5 to ignore the escalators, we jumped into the first available lift and whipped down to the baggage hall. And, six minutes after crossing the Airbus threshold, the bags started to appear! Ours were off third and fifth and we grabbed a trolley and headed directly for the as-yet-untried Sofitel.

Verdict for British Airways Domestic: 7.5/10. On Line Check In was imperfect, the Fast Bag Drop queue was too long, Fast Track Security needs sorting, flight information wasn’t available from lounge staff and the aircraft needed a bit of a wash. The crew (flight and cabin) were excellent however and the T5 arrival experience was quite superb.

Sofitel Terminal Five

Leaving aside the choice of a French hotelier to operate the only on-site accommodations at Britain’s flag carrier’s home terminal, I was rather looking forward to my first ever experience of a Sofitel property. Expectations were set fairly high following positive reports from New York, Chicago and a number of other outposts of the chain, but moderated by the fact that this was still an airport hotel and had only very recently opened. The previous week’s Marriott experience had been fine, although never has a hotel’s interior differed so markedly from its exterior. Outside – aluminium-clad modernity. Inside – traditional Marriott wood and brass. Strange.



Signposting from Arrivals North wasn’t too bad and we were swiftly heading up in the lift to the Sofitel link bridge, the entrance to which signals quite a significant change of atmosphere. Though still distinctly modern, the stark industrial efficiency of the generic T5 environment gives way to an altogether warmer, relaxed and comfortable if bland ambience. I may be mistaken, but I was certain that I could detect a spa-like aroma being introduced through the aircon as we walked the polished, tiled then richly carpeted floor, sloping gently down away from the terminal building. The only oddity being the strange undulation underfoot, which is particularly noticeable when wheeling a trolley and clearly a function of the construction, as tiles had been cut to accommodate the humps and dips.

At the end of the corridor is a set of doors and a porter’s post, from which we were greeted by a cheery ‘Bon Soir’ and a helpful guide to head down in the lift and then turn right to Reception. However, as we had to wait a few seconds for a lift, the porter left his station and took over the trolley. He invited us to take the escalator and he would deal with the luggage. Thanking him, we took his advice and descended to a lobby which was reasonably busy with checking-in guests – almost all of whom were BA crew. The porter arrived with the bags and parked them up, before disappearing behind the desk while I queued. The next thing I knew, our sainted porter had commandeered a vacant PC and beckoned me forward, around the crews, to complete our check-in. He wasn’t the slickest as it clearly wasn’t his usual role, but he got it right and was very friendly and professional, so full marks to Sofitel for training and empowering their staff to ‘own’ a guest’s needs.

Returning to MCC and the luggage, I found that a bellhop had transferred our bags to a hotel trolley and was waiting to show us to our room. En-route, he pointed out the restaurant and bar, told us a little about the hotel and its facilities and was, all-in-all, another superb ambassador for Sofitel. If only they could have given him a suit that fitted properly....



The twin room was a steal at £95+VAT, and the only extra that we would add to the bill was £15 for Internet access. Although not hugely spacious, with extra inches over those needed for a double bed being taken up by the two singles, the room was nicely furnished and very quiet. There was a Stressless recliner, a good workspace and a sizeable flat panel TV.



The media console on the wall is not unique to Sofitel but is very useful nonetheless. In fact, the only aspect of the room which wasn’t particularly well thought-out was the hole in the panel behind and beneath the TV which exposed messy wiring when viewing from the beds. The beds themselves are worthy of note though, supremely comfortable and trimmed with high thread-count linen of silken feel.



The bathroom, though clearly a pre-fabricated job, was also well-appointed and benefited from a separate wet-room style shower. Fixtures and fittings looked top-notch and worked flawlessly. Amenities are by Hermes and of high quality, although the quantities and range were not exactly generous. Still, the bathroom shows what can be done in a compact space and with factory construction – and therefore what a missed opportunity the T5 lounge offerings are.





And so to bed early to prepare for a sprightly start in the morning, and the anticipation of a long day of First Class fun.

Checkout the following morning was swift and painless, with luggage assistance offered but declined. With the Concorde Club Room in prospect, there was no need to dine at the hotel, so I’m afraid that the menus, service and prices went untested. Suffice to say that the restaurant looked very quiet, if stylish.

Verdict for the Sofitel T5: 9/10. Given the rate paid and the fact that the levels of service were clearly worthy of full-price, I would be delighted to stay there again and also give other Sofitels a try. Certainly the best Airport hotel I’ve ever stayed in – from a selection of not that many – but I’d suggest losing the footstool from the Stressless to free up at least a little floor space.